Also when cutting the shaft to length put the jam nut first run it down and the cut the shaft then back the nut out that would chase the threads putting the clevis on easier
I dont mess with old yokes I always stock new ones saves time and usually they worn at clevis hole elongated.
Thank you for your great videos. Keep on wrenchin! Greetings from Norway π
And why didn't you just replace the broken spring inside air cylinder?! This cylinder is serviceable you can open it and replace the spring or membrane!
Hello dear friend, greetings from a small village of Iran, I'm a dumpertruck driver, your work is so Great
looks like your slack adjuster clevis pin hole is worn out just a bit too much. i saw quite a bit of movement in there when you released the brakes. either way i enjoyed the video .
all i can say amazing job you got thump up from me and i hope everyone watched this video to be fare and give the thump up as well PLEASE,thank you sir for post it and always good luck for you sir.
The definition of a diesel mechanic
Notice he doesnt need a safety goggle but very great video
Where are the dust covers? Hacky to leave them off.
I always put a nut on the thread first, before i cut a thread down to size.
the best way to check and see if the brake assembly on any axle is working, check the drum… if its got rust on the inside surface of the drum…the shoes are not making contact. You should not have been able to move that slack adjuster at all with your hand unless the slack adjuster has been turned all the way back… other issues than just that can… normal position brakes are locked up…cant move anything. Released has 120 psi to chamber and you wont move that by hand. First off…cage the old air can while still mounted and the brakes are released…easier to bet caging bolt in and tightened down. Then back the brake off. TIP: any self adjusting slack adjusters do not work without grease…. grease is very important… grease keeps the ratchet part from gumming up with grim. Even new slack adjuster must be purged after installation… the factory assembly grease does not count… that little arrow the moves on the outside of slack has to be free to catch the next notch of internal mechanism… and $3.00 tube of grease is cheaper than $150 slack adjuster, when you can hit all the slacks with one tube..
Excellent job man
New sub here
Some ear plugs wouldn't hurt.. I used to be the same way till one night i realized how loud the ringing in my ears was. I
I noticed he did not cage the chamber. I am not trying to be a a#%hole I am just confused. Thereβs people I work with that say you always have to cage it n then thereβs others that donβt. How do you know when to cage it or not?!??? I have seen the damage these spring can do.
hay my man you great teacher straight 2 the point,video not with a mumbo jumbo keep up the good work i defintely be watching and subscribing !!!!
Looks like you might want to replace a couple of tires too
My comment got screwed up. You weren't able to read the first part. My question was are you old enough to have been able to rebuild both sides of a 30/30. When I was doing repair both sides had removeable clamps. And the parking brake spring commonly broke and punctured the diaphragm. We always had parts in stock for complete 30/30 reduild.
Thanks
ππππππππ
That pin would come out if you released the brakes
Can you made a video on to clock a 30-30 brake chamber?
New to this, how did you get the nut onto the pushrod? Did you have to tap it first?
Remember that the maxi spring can be dangerous…sure that you know that others may not.
Always thread on a nut before cutting a thread. FYI it would be difficult for someone to know where to cut the new one by using this video. Just constructive criticism.
Blessed morning to you Mr mechanic, you really explain how to be a heavy truck mechanic. Your explanations is band on. Thanks much. I just finished change a brake chamber. Got dot and the adjustments was correct.
Best regards.
Thanks for all your videos, been learning a lot from your work brother…
Good install but on a side note, I'll bet this brake will be unsafe soon. Notice from about 8:32 to 8:45 the slack adjuster anchor stud moves as the slack adjuster rotates. This is caused by the stud and nut no longer gripping the slotted anchor plate tight enough. Over the years I've seen many anchor studs loosen up due to time, corrosion and not much metal surface around the slot to grip to in the first place. This is a common problem that is largely overlooked by drivers, mechanics, safety managers and even certified inspectors. The result can be that the slack adjuster looses its reference and doesn't keep the correct adjustment. Always make sure those anchor studs are tightly mounted to the anchor plate because they do have a tendency to loosen up. Hope I helped. Thanks for your interesting videos, Ezrider359.
Great video, thanks.
Cool – dear pro how about the slack adjuster stroke ? thanks a lot.
In case you missed it you use anti-seize on the clevis and pipe dope on the airlines
Thank you for another video I appreciate that
You did that ass backwards. When you have air to the brake pot pull the clevis pin then pull the red button in the truck. Then remove air lines then the two nuts on the brake pot.
Itβs a lot easier to get your Clevis started if you put your jam nut on before you cut the push rod
Great video. I am trying to learn watching these ! Why did you not have to cage the spring brake before removing the can ? I just helped a friend put a new can on his crane truck and I compressed the spring before we tried to unbolt the can ? I figured the brake was fully spring applied and it had to be caged before removing! The old can had clevis welded to the piston rod, so Cut it off and welded the new nut to the clevis and threaded the clevis onto the new piston shaft .It worked out nicely but was just curious about the spring brake ! Thanks for the videos !
I don't bother with the cotter pin. Just get an air hammer and whack the whole pin out…..
You bring back so many good memories of my Dad and I working side by side every weekend. Thank you for your great content brother.
Where I can buy the brake chamber?
ππππ
Thank you very much I am also a North Dakota farm boy
What is the bearing piece called that holds the rod next to the slack adjuster called
Sorry wrong length, if the spring in the chamber is worn or broken thee push rod will be short. Then you will cut the new push rod too short. In the UK we call this a brake chamber not a can and the new one comes with a locking pin in the rear. This holds the chamber in a resting position. You take your measurements while the old unit is fitted in the rest position and cut the new chamber accordingly. (HGV mechanic 30 years).
Also when cutting the shaft to length put the jam nut first run it down and the cut the shaft then back the nut out that would chase the threads putting the clevis on easier
I dont mess with old yokes I always stock new ones saves time and usually they worn at clevis hole elongated.
Thank you for your great videos. Keep on wrenchin! Greetings from Norway π
And why didn't you just replace the broken spring inside air cylinder?! This cylinder is serviceable you can open it and replace the spring or membrane!
Hello dear friend, greetings from a small village of Iran, I'm a dumpertruck driver, your work is so Great
looks like your slack adjuster clevis pin hole is worn out just a bit too much. i saw quite a bit of movement in there when you released the brakes. either way i enjoyed the video .
all i can say amazing job you got thump up from me and i hope everyone watched this video to be fare and give the thump up as well PLEASE,thank you sir for post it and always good luck for you sir.
The definition of a diesel mechanic
Notice he doesnt need a safety goggle but very great video
Where are the dust covers? Hacky to leave them off.
I always put a nut on the thread first, before i cut a thread down to size.
the best way to check and see if the brake assembly on any axle is working, check the drum… if its got rust on the inside surface of the drum…the shoes are not making contact. You should not have been able to move that slack adjuster at all with your hand unless the slack adjuster has been turned all the way back… other issues than just that can… normal position brakes are locked up…cant move anything. Released has 120 psi to chamber and you wont move that by hand.
First off…cage the old air can while still mounted and the brakes are released…easier to bet caging bolt in and tightened down. Then back the brake off. TIP: any self adjusting slack adjusters do not work without grease…. grease is very important… grease keeps the ratchet part from gumming up with grim. Even new slack adjuster must be purged after installation… the factory assembly grease does not count… that little arrow the moves on the outside of slack has to be free to catch the next notch of internal mechanism… and $3.00 tube of grease is cheaper than $150 slack adjuster, when you can hit all the slacks with one tube..
Excellent job man
New sub here
Some ear plugs wouldn't hurt.. I used to be the same way till one night i realized how loud the ringing in my ears was. I
I noticed he did not cage the chamber. I am not trying to be a a#%hole I am just confused. Thereβs people I work with that say you always have to cage it n then thereβs others that donβt. How do you know when to cage it or not?!??? I have seen the damage these spring can do.
hay my man you great teacher straight 2 the point,video not with a mumbo jumbo keep up the good work i defintely be watching and subscribing !!!!
Looks like you might want to replace a couple of tires too
My comment got screwed up. You weren't able to read the first part. My question was are you old enough to have been able to rebuild both sides of a 30/30. When I was doing repair both sides had removeable clamps. And the parking brake spring commonly broke and punctured the diaphragm. We always had parts in stock for complete 30/30 reduild.
Thanks
ππππππππ
That pin would come out if you released the brakes
Can you made a video on to clock a 30-30 brake chamber?
New to this, how did you get the nut onto the pushrod? Did you have to tap it first?
Remember that the maxi spring can be dangerous…sure that you know that others may not.
Always thread on a nut before cutting a thread. FYI it would be difficult for someone to know where to cut the new one by using this video. Just constructive criticism.
Blessed morning to you Mr mechanic, you really explain how to be a heavy truck mechanic. Your explanations is band on. Thanks much. I just finished change a brake chamber. Got dot and the adjustments was correct.
Best regards.
Thanks for all your videos, been learning a lot from your work brother…
Good install but on a side note, I'll bet this brake will be unsafe soon. Notice from about 8:32 to 8:45 the slack adjuster anchor stud moves as the slack adjuster rotates. This is caused by the stud and nut no longer gripping the slotted anchor plate tight enough. Over the years I've seen many anchor studs loosen up due to time, corrosion and not much metal surface around the slot to grip to in the first place. This is a common problem that is largely overlooked by drivers, mechanics, safety managers and even certified inspectors. The result can be that the slack adjuster looses its reference and doesn't keep the correct adjustment. Always make sure those anchor studs are tightly mounted to the anchor plate because they do have a tendency to loosen up. Hope I helped. Thanks for your interesting videos, Ezrider359.
Great video, thanks.
Cool – dear pro how about the slack adjuster stroke ? thanks a lot.
In case you missed it you use anti-seize on the clevis and pipe dope on the airlines
Thank you for another video I appreciate that
You did that ass backwards. When you have air to the brake pot pull the clevis pin then pull the red button in the truck. Then remove air lines then the two nuts on the brake pot.
Itβs a lot easier to get your Clevis started if you put your jam nut on before you cut the push rod
Great video. I am trying to learn watching these ! Why did you not have to cage the spring brake before removing the can ? I just helped a friend put a new can on his crane truck and I compressed the spring before we tried to unbolt the can ? I figured the brake was fully spring applied and it had to be caged before removing! The old can had clevis welded to the piston rod, so Cut it off and welded the new nut to the clevis and threaded the clevis onto the new piston shaft .It worked out nicely but was just curious about the spring brake ! Thanks for the videos !
I don't bother with the cotter pin. Just get an air hammer and whack the whole pin out…..
You bring back so many good memories of my Dad and I working side by side every weekend. Thank you for your great content brother.
Where I can buy the brake chamber?
ππππ
Thank you very much I am also a North Dakota farm boy
What is the bearing piece called that holds the rod next to the slack adjuster called
Sorry wrong length, if the spring in the chamber is worn or broken thee push rod will be short. Then you will cut the new push rod too short. In the UK we call this a brake chamber not a can and the new one comes with a locking pin in the rear. This holds the chamber in a resting position. You take your measurements while the old unit is fitted in the rest position and cut the new chamber accordingly. (HGV mechanic 30 years).