Everything Necessary to Become a Vacuum Truck Driver!

Ways To Get Good Semi Truck Tires
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This article may be interesting for anyone who has seen used commercial vehicle ads online but is unsure if employment using this truck would be prolific or stimulating. Vacuum truck driving could be a great job for anyone who loves operating commercial trucks.

Drivers of these vehicles pick up, transfer and discharge various materials. These materials come in a variety of forms such as fresh and brine water, crude oil, wastewater and toxic chemicals. Considering the types of materials that are involved, these operators should undergo various kinds of training, several certification programs and must abide by the hiring company's operating procedures to perform the job productively and safely. An applicant for a job with these types of vehicles should know the requirements necessary to operate them if they are interested in pursuing this in-demand field.

Educational Prerequisite

Even though there are no specific educational requirements, some companies will only accept those who are high school graduates or those who have received a General Education Diploma (GED). Additionally, the applicant must have a clean driving record. Experience working in a repair shop may also be an advantage.

Driving Experience

Requirements for hiring based on experience can vary from one company to another. For this type of vehicle operation, the applicant is usually required to have two to five years of commercial truck experience.

The United States Department of Transportation (DOT) explains that "driving experience" means the vehicle handler was previously employed by a company that required the operation of commercial trucks, such as vacuum trucks. Subsequently, the applicable needs to have passed a hands-on skills test given by a certified licensing and testing office recognized by each state. Most importantly, after the testing and during the applicant's employment at their previous company, they must actually operated commercial vehicles for at least two years.


A vacuum truck operator must hold a valid commercial driver's license (CDL) and be certified by the United States Department of Transportation (DOT) by having completed any requirements set forth by them.

The following are requirements one must complete to be qualified to receive a commercial driver's license. They must:

  • Be at least 21 years old or above and physically fit. Some states accept 18 year olds, but they are limited to working within that state. Being 21 years old allows one to do interstate driving.
  • Pass a medical exam every two years. The physical exam includes a:

1. Hearing and visual test
2. Blood pressure test
3. Drug test
4. Alcohol test

  • Have normal upper and lower extremities
  • Pass a written exam regarding certain rules and regulations
  • Prove that they can operate the vehicle
  • Have a good driving record. According to the DOT, a "good driving record" means that they may not hold another license or have a revoked license and may not have any serious traffic violations.


Training for a vacuum truck operator is done informally. New hires must attend one to two-day training seminar in which they learn: general rules; company policies and safety operations; and complete any necessary paperwork. Some states offer a "hands-on" type of seminar to enhance the knowledge of the operator in handling the vehicle. Certification is given after one passes the training seminar.

Finding a vacuum truck for sale is not that difficult; however, becoming a vacuum truck operator can require more effort. One must undergo several training and skills tests to become certified. The government requires vehicle operators to have a commercial driver's license. On top of this, the applicant should have medical exams to ensure that they are physically fit to operate the vehicle. The company usually provides safety training regarding operation of the vehicle.

Hopefully the above information will prove useful to those individuals interested in pursuing employment in the field of vacuum truck driver and operator. The best of luck in finding that desired job!

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Source by Christopher M. Hunter

Do You Need A Freightliner Repair?

Fuel Pump Cutoff Switch
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Smooth and effective transportations happen to be the prime requisite for numerous businesses. Running a business isn’t easy, and product delivery is an integral part of it. Companies dealing in product manufacturing, production, and delivery are always on the lookout for smooth and hassle-free transportations. It’s here that they need to ensure perfect maintenance and repair for their trucks.

Importance of maintenance

A strong machinery can exhibit retarded functioning without prior notice. It’s highly imperative to look for the first signs of problems so that you can fix issues without delay. Targeted and proper Freightliner Repair is a crucial necessity for your transportation vehicles. Make sure you identify the issues, find out what’s wrong, and then solve the problem. Following the right tips will help you plan the project and get the best out of your vehicle. With a highly functional truck helping in hassle-free transportations, it would be easier to reach out to clients.

Do you need maintenance?

Repairing or maintenance is of paramount significance for your dream vehicle, but before you start off, it would be crucial to know whether you need it at all. Your Freightliner trucks will turn out to be the best partners in business transportations. Quite naturally, you should get in touch with the top Freightliner Repair companies capable of offering professional services. The leading service providers will provide you with comprehensive details of the entire project. They will perform inspections thus helping the truck owner understand the current state of his vehicle.

Why do you need repairing?

What is it that makes these maintenance services so important? Before taking the plunge, make sure you develop crystal clear ideas of the reasons. The following tips will give you an idea:

• Technical issues: Every truck owner has to face technical issues while driving. It’s highly imperative to identify these problems and solve them at the earliest. It’s right here that professional maintenance comes to your help.

• On-road problems: High-efficiency trucks are the best partners in product deliveries. At times, these trucks exhibit retarded functioning and poor performance. If you want to avoid on-road problems, professional maintenance will turn out to be important.

• Driving hassles: Even if any single component in your truck goes wrong, you might have to face driving hassles. The presence of such issues creates the demand for professional repairs.

These factors and tips will clearly explain why you need professional maintenance or repairs. With the leading experts by your side, things will become even easier than you.

Taking the lead

You need to keep your vehicle up and running always. That creates the need for associating with professional service providers. Right from identifying the problems in your truck to solving them within a short span, the leading service providers will render comprehensive support. One of the major benefits of their services is the all-around support. Irrespective of the occasion, you will get targeted maintenance for your trucks. Load lifting and shifting will become a cakewalk, and your high-powered vehicle will deliver exceptional on-road performances.

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Source by Marina Marlose

Do it Yourself Seal Coating in 7 Easy Steps

Volvo Truck Parts: Better Suspension Gives You a Softer Ride
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After 25 years in this business, I've pretty much got it all figured out … First of all, for those who've never sealed their own driveway before, all I have to say is RUN! Run to the nearest phone, and call your local seal coating professional and let them do the dirty work. Some of my best customers were people that had tried to do this themselves at home. Unsuccessfully.

However, after studying this do-it-yourself guide to fun and profits in the seal coating business, you too will be able to seal coat with the best of 'em! But seriously, it's not rocket science, and with a few basic tools, common sense, and a little manual labor, you too can learn to do this neatly and efficiently, and before you know it, your neighbors will be asking you to do their driveway. I kid you not! There could be worse things than making a few hundred dollars for a few hours labor in your spare time! So, if you want to have a little fun, save a lot of money, while preserving your asphalt investment for years to come, let's get to it!
The basic tools for making this job quick and easy, include:

1. A weed trimmer, and preferably, a cheap, full face, plastic shield protector, or at least, safety glasses.
This is not an option! Safety is always rule number one. Besides, it hurts like hell to get hit by flying rocks,
and it would really suck (pardon my language) to lose an eye at the same time.
2. A good stiff "push broom", preferably a "wire street broom" type. Either that, or a good stiff drink, and reach for that phone!
3. A good leaf blower, preferably the higher powered push type, but the smaller hand held type will do the trick.
4. A roll of 2 inch wide masking tape.
5. One of those metal paint stirring paddles that fit into a power drill. Often times, the fine silica sand
that is added into the seal coating material for traction, settles to the bottom of the bucket, and you can end up spending more time stirring up the stuff, than you do applying it. The best thing would be to just mix it up in the bucket it came in. You could even use a small shovel to mix it with.
6. Ideally, a professional grade 24 "sealing coating brush and handle.
Depending on the size of your driveway, you could theoretically use the smaller brushes sold at home
Depot, but my advise here will be saving you hours of time, and hundreds of dollars, so why not buy a decent brush that will give you a better finish, and you can use year, after year? The time saving factor alone makes it a great investment.
7. You should wear old clothes and sneakers, because, contrary to popular belief, you will be walking through this stuff as you spread it out.
You should be using a Latex product, and it washes off with soap, water, and a gentle scrub pad.
One important thing to remember after you've stepped in this stuff is, do not walk off of the asphalt onto something you do not want sealed, like a brick walkway, or nice lawn.

If you must leave the area, shuffle your feet on the driveway, or step off into some mulch, sand, or a piece of old carpeting, cardboard, anything.
Even after you clean your sneakers, never walk onto your house carpeting! There's always some material up in the treads or sides that will soil the carpet. Guess how I know this?

OK, Let The Fun Begin!

STEP # 1. Proper Edging.
Before you begin application of the seal coating material, proper cleaning and preparation is critical. After removing everything from the driveway, you should use a "weed trimmer" as needed, to ensure that all growth along the entire perimeter is removed, and there is no overhanging grass above the surface edge of the driveway, and I also use the trimmer to clean up against stone walls, and garage doors, Depending how close growth is to the driveway, you may get a sharper looking trim by holding the trimmer upside down, with the cutting string vertical, to get a bias edge. Of course, NEVER, EVER, use this type of tool without proper eye protection! I use a full face shield, the clear plastic type from Home Depot. They're cheap, and every time I hear a loud "clunk" as a rock zings off of the shield, I just gotta smile. Plus, the rocks fly up at you more often when you hold the trimmer in this upside down position. Once you've trimmed the edges, now comes the really fun part. The cleaning! I hate the cleaning. Well, actually, unless your driveway has heavy dirt deposits, it's really not too bad.

STEP # 2. Proper Cleaning.
It is so much easier to have two people during this part of the procedure. One person on the broom, and one person on the leaf blower. If you're using a small hand blower, that's fine, it'll just take a little longer. If your driveway is reliably clean, this will not take much time at all. Start at one end, and slowly make your way forward in a back and forth pattern, while sweeping, and loosing up any sand or soil deposits, ahead of the blower. Keep marching forward, and make sure you blow off every square inch as you keep your pattern uniform so as not to miss any debris. If your driveway is exceptionally dirty, you may want to pressure wash it first.

STEP # 3. Crack Sealing.
This is something that's a little more tricky. Some areas of the country do not do any crack sealing, as freezing and thawing cycles are uncommon. However, water still enters, and usually washed out the underlying base material, so if feasible, sealing them is best, as this is where most of the premature deterioration occurs. In some areas of the country, the crack sealing is the most important part of the job. Here in New England, it is critical. I use a "hot melted rubber" material, but unless you have the proper equipment, it's difficult for the average homeowner to utilize this process. However, they do make a rubber tape, or rope, that can be applied, and then melted with a torch, and troweled out. You may want to sprinkle a little fine sand on the hot rubber, so you will not track it, or have leaves or debris stick to it before it sets up. There are also liquid acrylic fillers available, and depending on the size and quantity, this may work best for you. Any crack sealing should be done prior to seal coating, and if it's the liquid type, follow the instructions, and sometimes give it some curing time prior to seal coating. If you use this method, I would get a cheap paint brush, and after applying the liquid crack sealant, sort of "touch it up" by dabbing the brush to help make the texture blend into the surrounding surfaces a little better. This brush should rinse out with water, and you may need it later on in this project. This would also be the time to address any oil stains that you may have. If it is a long standing stain that has soaked into the asphalt over time, nothing can solve it, but there are oil stain "primers" you can purchase to help the sealant adhere to the surface of the oil stain. It may be available where you purchase your sealant. If not, I could send you some with your wisely purchased professional seal coating brush and handle. All you need to do is pour some out, and brush it out over the stain. It should dry fairly quickly.

STEP # 4. Preparing the Material.
This is where it could get messy. The best method, as stated, would be the long shafted paint mixer on a drill. Or have an extra empty bucket, and pour them back and forth while intermittently using something to stir it up in the buckets. Depending on the brand of sealant, sand content, and how long it's been sitting on the shelf, this process may vary in difficulty. You may want to mix the majority of your buckets in advance, to eliminate stopping mid application to mix the next bucket. This is where it may help to have an assistant, but if the material looks pretty well mixed when you first open it, it will not be an issue anyways. Be sure to do this mixing on the driveway, where if anything spills, it will not matter. If you buy your material days in advance, you could always place them upside down for a few days to let the sand dissipate, and hopefully, the lid is tightly sealed, and will not leak!

STEP # 5. Applying the material.
Once mixed, start pouring it out! Try to keep it even spread spread across the edge of the driveway in an even row from one side to the other. Do not worry about the amount you pour out at this initial stage, and you can even dump the whole bucket at one passing, holding it out low in front of you to minimizeize splatter, as you move from one side to the other. It's best to stay back 3 feet or so from the edge, just to play it safe. Once it's on the surface, take your brush, and work from one side to the other, gently pushing a steady row of material closer and closer to the edges of the surface. At this point, you should be walking in the material, stepping gently so you're not popping into the material and causing splatter.

The general idea is to gradually work the material right up to the very edge, without too much excess material at the edge. You may want to practice in a non critical area first, instead of right up against a concrete apron, stone wall, or brick walkway. Hold the brush at an angle, pushing the material closer and closer, while at the same time, trying to regulate the amount of material you are pushing forward. Better too little, than too much. It's just a little awkward to pull back the excess material when you get too much of it close to an edge. If you need to, and can not get the brush in front of the leading edge to pull back excess material, you can always use some cardboard, your credit card (It's the best use for them these days anyways), fingers, whatever. Another thing you want to keep handy in case of a mishap, or splatter, is a water hose. If you splatter a door in a major way, you can lightly hose it off, and I would recommend you always keep a small spray bottle of water very close by, somehow hooked on your belt to quickly spray off any smaller mistakes.

Keep in mind, on a hot summer day, this material can dry within seconds on a hot surface, and then its too late to wash off. But do not worry. Once dry, you can usually manage to get it off with a wire scrub brush, sandpaper, or some such thing. There are some solvents, even gasoline (be careful), that will get the material off, but some of these solvents make an even larger mess, if on a porous surface.

Sometimes it's better to leave a small spot than create a bigger one. I would also recommend you place masking tape over the edge surface of anything you want to keep clean, such as walkways, garage aprons, etc., at least until you become proficient at "cutting-in". Once you've got your first pass completed at the beginning edge, just keep walking back and forth, pushing the material in front of you as you go along. Just relax, and let the brush do the work, but you must keep a firm grip on the brush with a gentle downward pressure, to keep the bristles bent slightly backwards. If they pop forward, or face straight down, it could "chatter" and flick material where it does not belong. Just keep the brush handle at a fairly steep angle up near your chest area, and you'll be fine. Make sure you never push the brush with the handle in front of your throat. If it catches on something, or you trip, it's really hard to pull a broomstick out of your throat while you're floating all over the ground. Oh, sure, it might be great fun to watch this happen from a safe distance as you're calling 9-1-1, but it makes such a mess! Once you get the first row started, just keep on going, overlapping the row you just finished, to help insure maximum penetration of the material.

This may all sound complicated, but rest assured, after a few passes, you'll get a feel for it, and you'll be off and running like a pro. As you reach the end of one row, try to regulate the amount of material as you get near the end edge, and sort of swoop the brush "around the corner", if you know what I mean. Not a real corner, but brushing the material as close to the edge as possible, without spilling excess material off the side, and continuing forward up the side a little ways. Sometimes, I will continue up the side for 4 or 5 feet if I've got a good "run" going. You will find that you switch the brush handle from one side to the other in your hands, as you change direction from left to right. Are you sorely confused now? Great, I've done my job!

After you brush out 2 or 3 rows of material, you must now go back to the beginning and brush out all those foot prints you just left behind. Same thing, different technique. Now you need to step out of the path a little as you brush out the footprints in the same pattern as you spread it out. I will sometimes spread out 4 or 5 rows of material before going back to hit the footprints. This gives you a little more room to brush out a few rows of prints, while giving you space to spread out a few more rows of material without having to step in the material you just "finish brushed" the footprints out of. Make sense?

If you brush over any low spots, leaving a puddle of material in a place that the brush missed, just pick the brush up off the surface a bit, and angle it so you just brush out the low spot with the end of the brush. You can also use this technique to "flick off" any pebbles that may mysteriously appear in your material from time to time. Try to keep the rows uniformly straight, as it will improve the final appearance. Many driveways curve, or have odd shapes. Just take a look around as you're brushing, and try to imagine the uniform patterns that make the most sense of trying to keep an even progress towards the finish line. For example, as your coming into a turn, the rows will be wider at the outside edge of the turn, and narrows at the inside of the turn, as you typically angle the rows to try and stay parallel with the general width of the driveway . Just aim your brush straight while disregarding the previous row you brushed, as you no longer will be keeping the rows even spaced. It's sort of like the luggage conveyor belts at the airport. As it hits the corners, the inside edge becomes narrows as the outside edge fans out. It's like magic I tell ya, magic!

Often times, a driveway will have a "turning apron" where you can back into and "turn around". When you come to one of these, there are a couple of ways to address them. The best one is to stop your rows, while making sure you leave an excess amount of material at the leading edge, to minimize the potential of the edge drying before you finish cutting-in the turn-out. If you do this, also make sure you brush out the footprints right up to the leading edge, to make sure they do not "dry-in" while you're busy cutting-in.

Now turn and face the turn-out, and you're sort of looking at a mini driveway in front of you. Just use the same technique as you did from the very beginning, and after you've finished brushing in this turn-out, stop at "it's entrance line" leaving a little excess at the leading edge, like before, and go back to where you left off on the "main field" of the driveway. You then begin spreading the next row, and if it's begin to dry out while you were busy doing the turn-out, try to avoid stepping in the semi dry material, and brush out a row or two while standing on the unsealed side of the driveway, until you can step back onto freshly wet sealant, and off you go.

As you begin to meet the leading edge of the turn-out, just blend the two together in as straight a seam as possible. That's probably the simplest way of doing this. In the event of a driveway that leads straight in, with the garage off to the right, you may want to start at the far end, and work your way out, while cutting in the garage to you left, row by row, as you work your way out. There's no right or wrong ways, just better ways. You need to think about the easiest brushing pattern for you, without boxing yourself in.

There are so many other options and possibilities too numerous to get into during this brief "homeowners" training session. Now, it's semi important to try to keep enough material laid down ahead of you, so you do not run dry. It really helps to have an assistant pour it out while you brush. Especially if your in the hot sun, when it may dry quickly. If the material begins to thicken up, you can always "spritz" a little water into it, and sort of brush it around and mix it up on the surface of the driveway. Like I said, it is not rocket science. Just use some common sense, and you can not go wrong. Well, you should not go wrong … The material should have the consistency of maple syrup, only a little thinner. Sometimes what you buy may be a little too thick to smoothly spread out. Just add a little water & stir it up! When it is scattered out, try to overlap the material already on the surface, to minimizeize having to "back brush" the material.

The number of buckets you will need may vary by manufacturer, viscosity of the material, and surface texture of the asphalt. You need to figure out the total square footage, length X width, and sometimes it's easier to break up the driveway and measure it section by section because of odd shapes and such. It's far better to have too much material than too little, as long as you do not open the last buckets if your getting close to the end. If you do not have a measuring wheel, or tape, you can pace off the distance. The average long stride is approximately 3 feet in distance, unless you're really short. Therefore, 10 long paces equals about 30 feet. 5 long paces equals 15 feet. 30 X 15 = 450 square feet. The buckets should have their specific calculations printed on the side. You should probably figure in an extra 10% safety margin to keep from running out on the job site. As you're pouring out the material, try to judge how far one bucket goes, and make an educated guess on whether you will need to open the last couple of buckets. If not, you can return them, but it sucks to run out, and if you stop and start again after a section has been discharged, it may be visibly obvious.

Another thing to be aware of, is that on a hot sunny day, you need to get the footprints brushed out quickly, before they "dry in." If you do not feel comfortable with this technique, you can always brush it out while staying just out of the material, but it's so much more work. Also, # 5. "Cutting in" Around the Edges. Often times, there will be a need to "cut-in" around certain areas. If there are a lot of little things to "cut-in" around, up the sides, or in tight areas, you can always do these areas first, and then when you get to that point with your rows, just slightly overlap with the areas you "pre-cut-in" and you will not get bogged down with the small detail work as you're spreading out the rows.

STEP # 6. Making the final cut.
As you are approaching the end of the project, the most important finishing touch that really makes the job stand out, is ending with a nice neat "street line". For this, it helps to have assistance. You want to lay down a strip of 2 inch masking tape across the end of your driveway. Depending on the shape, or condition of the street seam, you may want to extend the line a few inches out into the street. Have one person hold the leading end of the masking tape at one corner of the driveway, while you take the spool of tape and walk towards the other corner of the driveway. As you face your assistant, have them place their end of the tape on the ground visualizing where you want the "street line" to be. Then have them "tack down" the tape and begin slowly walking along, stepping on the tape as they go (not shuffling their feet, as this causes bunching up of the tape), while you slowly move the tape in the direction you want the line to be. This is very similar to the sobriety checks the police utilize, so save the stiff drinks until after you're finished, and celebrating a job very well done. You'll have earned it!

Heck, even if you buy the material, have second thoughts and never even do the job, celebrate and have a drink or two anyways. Did I mention I'm Irish? No offense. It's easy to make the line curved if needed, to conform to the geography, simply by moving the spool of tape you are holding, in whatever direction it needs to go, while your assistant continues to slowly walk forward on the tape. The further away you are from the person walking down the tape, the easier it is to control gentle curves, or straight lines. Once the tape is down, I always step back 20 feet or so up the road, in both directions to check that the line looks OK. It may look good while your standing right on top of it, but you would be amazed at how crooked something may appear from 20-30 feet away. It's always best to double check, as this is what people notice first and foremost.

I usually make a gentle "curve in" at each corner of the driveway, or depending, a sharp angle with a smaller piece of intersecting tape at the corner. Whatever looks best for your individual driveway. It varies. Once down, go back and make sure every inch of the tape has been stepped on. This prevents material seeing under the tape, even though it would be a minor seepage. I'm just very fussy, and demand nothing but the best from myself and my assistants, and expect nothing less than you, my dear friends. If a job is worth doing at all, it's worth doing to the very best of your ability. You can do this, and do it well. Have faith. If you feel nervous about your cutting in abilities, you can always add a second strip of tape next to the first, for a greater margin of error.

This is the sequence I would follow to do the job. However, you may want to lay down the tapeline first, so you do not have to stop, clean your feet, and interrupt the flow of your work progress. Now, as you are approaching the end, try to avoid putting out too much material, as you will have to scoop up the excess if you do. Just have a flat shovel or dustpan handy, in case this happens, and you can just brush it into the shovel, and pour it back into the bucket. As you are brushing out the final rows, and approaching the tape, be careful to stay "within the tape lines", and brush out the final prints up to the tape line as close as you can comfortably. This is where you have to step off the driveway to brush out the last of the footprints from the street side of the pipeline.

If you have mulch, sand or gravel at the end side of your driveway, you can shuffle your sneakers off in that, or step onto a mat or cardboard, or simply step out of your sneakers, and finish the final row in your socks. It would not be the first time … DO NOT forget to "wipe" before walking out into the street. Oh, yes, do not forget to "look both ways". It would suck to be run over before you got to finish the job.

STEP # 7. "Happy Endings".
Once you have brushed out the last of the prints, if there is a little extra material in the corners, or anything, you can just gently brush it out back onto the driveway. Now for the "getting your hands dirty" part, if you have not already. When removing the tape, be sure to hold it over the driveway as you are pulling it up, so any excess material will not be falling onto the roadway. If it does, just hit it with a little water, and as long as the water flows away from the driveway, cool. Otherwise, some paper towels will do the trick in mopping up the water. It might be handy to have one of your empty buckets near to dump the handy of messy tape into for disposal. Before walking away from the end of the driveway, make sure you place a barricade to prevent anyone from driving on it. DO IT NOW !!! Even if you live on a dead end street that has not had another car on it for ten years, the minute you walk away, someone will turn into your driveway, looking for directions because they're lost on a dead end street. Guess how I know this …? Place a row of your empty buckets across the driveway, close enough together so that even a very small car can not fit between them, looking for those directions. If they can, they will.

Once again, how do I know this? One time, this woman dropped onto the newly sealed driveway just as I turned around to get the two wooden grading stakes and a roll of caution tape that I usually use as a barricade. I was literally 3 feet away and just turned my back for an instant. Actually, it's happened twice. I was not very happy about this. No, not happy at all. The second time was a UPS delivery truck right in front of my face. At least I got to scream at him to STOP RIGHT WHERE YOU ARE! DON "T MOVE! DO NOT BACK BACK! DO NOT MOVE OR I'LL SHOOT! DAMN … I'll miss that UPS guy. I had to wipe them off as he was backing off the wet surface onto the dry street. that I've ever done something so stupid, of course. The more I meet some people, the more I love my dog. 're done. Time for that drink now! Once the material dries, it will turn a flat black color. hours before driving on it, and preferably 48. The longer the better.

Once you begin to use the driveway, you may notice some tire scuffing, especially in tight turns of the wheel. This is normal, and simply the scuffing off of the top layer of fine silica sand that's been added for traction. It's similar to using a piece of wallpaper for the first time. It really stands out. Shortly, it will all blend together as you continue to use it. You should also try to prevent turning the steering wheel of your vehicle unless it is in motion. This will badly scuff the surface, and on a hot day, can actually dig into the asphalt. Well, I guess that's all there is to it.

I mean it when I said, once you've done such a great job, others will ask about it, and it would not be such a bad idea, if you were so inclined, to start making a few hundred dollars an hour doing the same for neighbors and friends in your spare time. If you do decide to take the next step, I can help. This was just the tip of the iceberg. I have 25 years of experience, and that just does not fit in 5,000 words or less.

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Source by Michael Callahan

Don’t Stain Your Deck And Reasons Why

Timber and Its Use in Commercial Truck Construction
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I’ve been staining decks for more years than I want to admit. I remember when there were only just a handful of deck sealing products on the market. There were no stains to color your deck and there were no UV (ultra-violet) products available. There was only clear and semi-transparent products to choose from. I was there when the Environmental Protection Agency made all the companies that develop stains to reformulate their products so they would be environmentally friendly. The trade off for having environmentally safe products is they don’t last as long as the old products.

So now you have safer products but you have to stain and seal your deck more often which will cost you more. The very first question I get from someone is how long will my stain last. That’s a great question but it has a lot of variables.

You have to consider if you want your deck to look natural,which is a clear or semi-transparent product or if you want to colorize your deck by covering the wood with a stain that has color.

Here is were the problems begin when choosing a natural look or should I colorize my deck. First where is my deck located on my home in relation to the sun. If you have a deck that gets sun all day and it faces south or southwest and you want to use a dark color stain,guess what,you just turn your deck into a solar collector.

Have you ever got into your car on a hot summer day and said OUCH. That is the same with your deck when you put a dark color stain on it when it has a southern exposure. It’s not uncommon for a deck to reach 140 degrees temperature in the summer. Next I hear,but if I can’t use a solid color stain and I use a semi-transparent stain it won’t last as long because the ultra-violet light rays from the sun will will cause it to break it down. Yes that’s true but at least you can enjoy your deck during the day time.

What if I use a lighter color stain on the south side,O.K. that’s fine but do you have pets or children that track mud. Look I’m giving you options to think about before you decide because I have (just about) seen it all. There is a lot to consider when you stain a deck.

Even if you are using a light stain on top of a dark stain. Sometimes (not always) the dark stain will show through the lighter color stain. To correct this just applied a second coat or better yet do a small test in a area that is not so conspicuous location to see what you are trying to achieve will work in the first place.

Important note for people who are do not know how to use a semi-solid stain product. A semi-solid stain when applied will still show the grain of the wood,you can see through the stain slightly. Some people choose a semi-solid when they meant to ask for or use a solid product which is totally opaque,you can’t see through it at all. Don’t ask someone you hire to use a semi-solid stain and say you did not like it after it was applied. Oh, by the way I wanted a solid stain to hide everything. If you do change your mind expect to pay twice for the job,because that’s what you are getting is a second stain job

Even deciding on the proper color is a big under taking, pick up a couple home and garden magazines and/or drive around your neighborhood and see what you like. This will eliminate a lot of pain by planning ahead of time.

Please consider the following. Think twice about using the bold colors,something that doesn’t look natural or just stands out and shouts at you. Do not stain your deck all the same color by this I mean stain you should stain your floor boards different from you pickets or railings. The prefer color for pickets is white and your line of vision is straight and not at your feet and you will get this nice clean look of white pickets.

This is why people like homeowner associations today,its because some people are color blind or just don’t know how to choose colors. They throw a color color on their deck and there goes the neighborhood. Try to make your stain project blend in with your neighborhood. You will maintain home values and get a much quicker sale on your property if you do decide to sell your property.

In the next article I’ll cover when and how to use clear deck sealers.

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Source by Earl Adkins

Semi-Trailer 101: A Trailer for Every Need

Car and Truck Alternators
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If you aren’t familiar with terms like Bunny Hopper, Wear Out Your Bumper or Rolling Roadblock, you probably aren’t a truck driver or work in the trucking industry. To those on the outside it can be a business of both myth and mystery. By the way, for those not in the know, they mean: a chronic lane changer, a tailgating vehicle and a slow moving construction vehicle.

Semi trucks, or big rigs, are seen every day on every highway in the country, and the trailers they pull come in all different types. Each style is designed for a different purpose, and their purpose gives them each their own unique shape. One of the first tractor-trailer units conceived was exclusively designed and built to meet a particular transport need.

In 1914, a man in Detroit named Fredric Sibley needed a trailer built specifically to transport his pleasure boat. The carriage builder he hired built him a trailer that could be pulled by a Ford Model T. The trailer was such a success that Sibley asked the carriage builder to make several more similar trailers for his lumber business. That carriage builder was August Charles Fruehauf. In 1918 he incorporated his business and called his creations “semi-trailers,” and thus the Fruehauf Trailer Company was born. His company was a major manufacturer of semi-trailers until 1997. A specific need 100 years ago was behind the invention of a new type of trailer that is now the world-wide standard in transporting practically everything we use.

What types of semi-trailers have their roots in August Fruehauf’s invention? Plenty. Whenever a new need arises, another variation of that early boat trailer is created. Here are some of the types of semi-trailers we see routinely traveling the roads of our country:

• Box Trailer – Sometimes called vans, these are the most common trailers we see. As the name implies, the trailer is a box. It’s fully enclosed and usually opens at the rear. They are used for transporting all kinds of products from auto parts to plastic bags. They make efficient use of space and protect cargo from the elements.

• Refrigerator Trailer (Reefer) – A refrigerated trailer is a box trailer with the added advantage of being cooled. Though common now, when they came into mass usage they transformed the produce and food distribution industry.

• Livestock Trailer – Not all our food needs to be delivered in a refrigerated truck. Some of it is still very much alive and on the hoof like cattle, hogs, sheep, chickens and other animals that are transported live. These trailers are made up of open-air compartments to provide fresh air and ease of cleaning. Depending on the animal, they may be double decked, triple decked or more.

• Tanker Trailer – These trucks play a major role in keeping the country going. Tankers haul practically any liquid you can name. They transport gasoline and other petrochemicals that keep the country on the move, fertilizers, food products like milk and orange juice, and at the opposite extreme, hazardous chemicals. The tanks on these trailers are built with a series of baffles to control the flow of liquids as the truck accelerates, slows down or makes sharp turns.

• Flatbed Trailer- There are several varieties of flatbed trailers. Some are basically a box truck without a top or sides. Others are low-slung, called lowboys. The type used depends on the cargo. A standard flatbed may be used to transport things like lumber, pipes and machinery. Lowboy trailers work for transporting large construction equipment like bulldozers and other equipment wider than the trailer bed. Lowboys are especially good for hauling equipment that would otherwise be too tall to clear bridges and overpasses.

• Belly-Drop Trailer – When dry commodities like grain, powdered chemicals and other similar products are transported, a belly-drop trailer is quick and easy to unload. The driver just drives the trailer over a grid at the drop point and releases the load out the bottom of the trailer. It’s quick and efficient.

The types of semi-trailers is only limited by our needs. Thanks to the ingenuity and creativity of the transportation industry, there will continue to be new types of trailers as long as there is cargo to be moved and drivers to haul it.

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Source by Greta Golfis

6 Tips To Start Your Auto Repair Shop Business Today

Is A Retread Tire A Good Buy?
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So you want to start an auto repair shop business here are 6 tips to get you started off right.

1) First as with any business you need to write a business plan:

Businesses that do not write a business plan usually fail you must know what you expect for the business. Where is it headed? Will you some day have a franchise or will you only have one location? What type of advertising should you do? How much will it cost for shop equipment employees tools lifts etc. You must write a plan to know where your business is headed. You would not plan a trip with out looking at a map would you? Make sure to map out your business to see future plans become a reality.

2) Register for a business license:

Call your local SBA they are the best place to start. They can tell you about loans, free publications and so much more. You must register your business with the local city hall. You should call the court house to find out what business licenses you will need as they vary from state to state. In my county you do not need a fictitious name if the business is in your name such as David's Car Repair but if you want Elite Car Repair you must file with the state for a fictitious name which can be done online.

3) Open a business account:

This is very important you will need an account just for the business to pay for business expenses. This is where a lot of businesses fail their spend business profits on personal bills. In the first few years of business the business must keep 80% of income to sustain itself and grow. I know it is tempting but be careful. Contact your local bank and get a no fee checking account for your business.

4) Get insurance:

You must have garage insurance if you will have employees you will need worker comp insurance and you should check into what ever other liabilities there may be for your area fire, hurricanes, tornado etc. Insurance can make or break your growing business if you have insurance and the shop burns down insurance will pay to replace your shop. Or if you have disability insurance for just yourself if your a one man business. If you break your wrench hand you can sustain the business for months until you get well.

5) Pick a location:

The old adage location, location, location is true with auto repair shops. You should make sure to find a shop right by the interstate or the main highway. If you can put your shop in the middle of your busy town. If you can find a shop location by the highway it will be very lucrative for your business.

6) Advertise:

To me this is one of the most important things you can do for your shop. The old adage "when you do not advertise a funny thing happens" Nothing is true in the auto repair business. The first thing you do if your car needs repairs and you do not know any one to fix it for you. Most people would check the phone book go online check the newspaper. A good source of advertising is tow truck companies in you area. What do truck drivers see daily that is right broken down vehicles. Offer them a referral fee for every customer they send you. You could pick up 10 or more repair jobs a month from them alone. Marketing is very important in any business get creative have fun and always under promise and over deliver and you will be successful.

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Source by David Lee Johnson

4 Reasons Why Some New Cars Do Not Come With a Spare Tire

How to Diagnose Common Auto AC Repair Problems - From Intermittent Cooling to Bad AC Odors
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If you are on the hunt for a new vehicle, and a spare tire is something important to you, be sure to pay attention to everything your potential new car comes with. That is because many car manufacturers are not putting spare tires in newer model vehicles anymore. If you find this interesting, wait until you learn why some producers have chosen this practice. Continue reading to learn the top 4 reasons why some new cars do not come with a spare tire option.

1) Improved Fuel Efficiency

With the trending green movement becoming so popular that it is almost ingrained in most consumers shopping shops, it is no surprise that many car manufacturers are trying to improve their vehicle's fuel efficiency. One effort to accomplish this has been to eliminate the extra weight of a spare tire. This may seem like a trivial amount, but the absence of a spare tire can reduce a vehicle's overall weight by 30 to 50 pounds. That is because you must also consider the additional weight of the jack and wrench. The benefits from this type of elimination also helps car manufacturers meet the strict EPA guidelines.

2) Increased Storage Space

Although it may not seem like a simple donut or spare can take up a lot of room, in smaller vehicles, its absence can make a huge difference. Vehicles like sports cars, compact cars, eco-conscious cars, electric cars, and even smaller-sized sedans, can all benefit from the lack of a spare. The added spaces allows for a more comfortable ride.

3) Batteries and Emissions Equipment

In contrast to adding more storage, eliminating a spare tire is a must for many car manufacturers because there is too much space occupied by other equipment. This includes hybrids, electric cars, and diesels. The batteries and emissions equipment of these vehicles takes up the space that would typically house a spare.

4) Decreased Manufacturing Costs

The elimination of a spare tire typically saves car manufacturers money; hundreds of thousands, in fact. However, many car manufacturers use that savings to improve other performance, aesthetic, and mechanical features. So sometimes, it is a "give and take" situation.

What To Do Without a Spare

If you are the driver of a vehicle that lacks a spare, whether because it was manufactured that way to you just do not have one, there are still options for you on the road. You can always purchase a properly sized spare or donut for your vehicle, along with the proper tools ( ie jack, torque wrench, road triangles, etc. ).

If you ever find yourself with a flat on the side of the road without one, you can contact a 24 hour emergency roadside assistance service. Some insurance policies actually cover roadside assistance needs, or have their own roadside assistance service. Simply dial the number and wait for help to arrive. Most emergency roadside assistance services operate on a 24 hour basis, 7 days a week and 365 days a year. That is why they are called "emergency" roadside assistance services.

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Source by Sarahbeth Kluzinski

King Pin Repair Or Replacement – Which is Best?

Ways To Get Good Semi Truck Tires
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There are millions of semi-trucks on the road and every one depends on a small piece of metal called a king pin to operate. This is a pin which makes the connection when the trailer is hooked to the tractorl. It's the pivot point and receives huge amounts of force and wear when the rig is in use. All working semi-trucks will require eternal king pin repair or replacement.

Approximately 30% of the rigs on the road right now require king pin maintenance. If monitored, they would not pass the standards set by the governing law. These pins require immediate replacement or repair to make the vehicle roadworthy.

Any pin wear in excess of. 08 inches indicates that a 'fix' is necessary. Repairing the pin at this point will make sure the rig can continue to operate safely. It will also alleviate a future damage on the fifth-wheel assembly, which would only add more expense and down time for the operator.

Repairing a worn king pin (compared to replacing it) is easy, inexpensive and quick to accomplish by someone experienced in this area. It only takes a few hours (or less), minimizing the time the rig is out of service. A replacement can take several days and costs quite a bit more to have done.

All semi-trucks on the road will need this maintenance operation sooner or later. It's natural for this pivot point to wear because of the huge physical forces it's required to absorb. If you elect replacement you'll have to spend one to three thousand dollars and will lose several days in productivity because the rig will be side-lined during this time. Repairing the pin is less costly and faster to complete (hours rather than days).

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Source by Lyle Wilson

Discount Cooper Tires – Durable and Affordable Tires For Your Vehicle

Is A Retread Tire A Good Buy?
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Cooper tires are widely known for their durability, strength, light weight and varied uses. They are good to use for long distances and are generally considered the most reliable tires all over the America. Cooper tires come in different sizes and different patterns. Some of the models include passenger tires, motor cycle tires, sports utility vehicle, light truck, ultra high tech performance and commercial vehicle wheels.

There are Zeon summer tires which are popular for their cornering ability and good steering. They are available in different sizes depending on your vehicle. These tires are comparatively cheaper and can run fast on dry or wet areas, however, they do not perform very well on ice or snow. Passenger tires, on the other hand, are known for their exceptionally high speed, and are less noisy. They are designed to give a sporty look and are made attractive and luxurious. They can fit many vehicles.

Light truck tires are good for all seasons which means they do well both in wet and dry tracks. They are suitable for all types of vehicles and provide a comfortable ride. The sports utility tires are usually used in off road carts and similar equipment. Lastly, the commercial vehicle tires are known for their exceptional durability as they have very solid structure.

Cooper tires do not compromise on quality which is why they are considered extremely reliable. They have been around for more than eight decades now only because of their superior quality. Their mileage warranty is probably the most outstanding feature. Even though they are more popular in the USA, they have successfully made their way into the global tire market and you can easily find them online. If you do a little research, you will be able to find Discount Cooper Tires on wallet-friendly prices.

What is better than reasonably priced premium quality tires with so many benefits for you? Not only are Discount Cooper Tires durable and strong, their winter-tires are extremely helpful for people staying in snowy parts of the country like New Hampshire, Vermont and Maine. In order to maintain mobility of the vehicle during winters, it is always suggested that you apply winter tires to all wheel positions. You can purchase Discount Cooper Tires in whatever size fits for your vehicle and whatever pattern you like. The variety of models also provide you with plentiful options to consider.

For better performance and safety you should replace your current tires. Disregarding the safety measures and instructions can result in tire explosion and can cause severe accidents. Ultimately, drivers themselves are responsible for the tires installed on the vehicle which is why you should purchase tires from a trusted and reliable source. The dealership companies usually provide technical assistance if you do not have adequate knowledge on the subject. Make sure you order your Discount Cooper Tires from an authorized dealer whether you purchase it online or from a store.

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Source by Shawn Parker

A Guide To Warehouse

Auto Air Conditioning Repair 101
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Warehousing is an important function of physical distribution, particularly when a manufacturer produces consumer goods. A commercial building for the storage of goods is known as a warehouse.

Some inventory is kept at or near the plant, and the rest is in warehouses in other locations. A company can own private warehouses and also rent space in public warehouses. Strong warehouses store goods for moderate-to-longer time periods. Distribution warehouses receive goods from various company plants and suppliers, and move them out as soon as possible. Some rooms provide facilities like cold storage. There are specialized warehouses for agricultural products.

The older, multistoried warehouses have slower elevators and inefficient material-handling procedures. These older systems are receiving competition from newer, single-story automated warehouses with advanced material-handling and warehouse-management systems under the control of a central computer. The computer reads store orders and routes lift trucks and electric hoists to gather goods according to bar codes, move them to loading docks and issue invoices. These warehouses have reduced worker injuries, labor costs, pilferage, and breakage, and improved inventory control.

The optimal location of a warehouse or warehouses is decided considering minimal transport costs. Customer services, levels of inventories and company warehouse versus public warehouse are some of the issues to be determined by logistics management. In some large companies, warehouses are operated by the sales department, or arrangements are made with public warehouses.

Suitable locations and an adequate number of warehouses maintained by an organization can give the customer better service and can also result in a reduction in transportation costs if the goods are moved by wagonloads, truckloads, or barge loads into the warehouses.

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Source by Jennifer Bailey