South Roberts Rd Dunkirk NY…..Watch as this Truck spins its wheels trying to go up this hill in the snow….Please Like, Comment and Subscribe to this channel!
No doubt about it but that the world is a heck of a lot safer than it used to be. Fire sprinklers in buildings, 911 services on the telephone and yes airbags on cars. The list can just go on and on. You see, getting into an accident used to be a far more dangerous prospect than it is today even a low velocity, slow speed accident.
Now airbags actually started out with the invention of the triggering device that's used to activate them. It was back in the mid-1960s that an inventor came up with a fast acting trigger device that was made up of a ball inside the tube. When the tube was impacted, the ball slammed forward to activate an electrical impulse.
Now while this was going researchers and product developers at all the auto companies had been busy trying to develop new ways of making cars safer to drive. One of their developments on the drawing board was airbag prototypes that worked in theory but had a number of problems. One of which was the lack of an immediate response triggering mechanism.
So it took only a couple of years after that for airbags to appear in automobiles, with Ford Motor Company being the first to employ front impact bags. Other automobile companies would soon follow but even then, earlier airbags in fact presented their own set of dangers that over time have been eliminated.
So ever since the first airbags were made they've been going through constant development and improvement. In fact the airbag system you will find in your car today is a true marvel of modern engineering. It has to activate a mere fraction of a second, do its job, and then deactivate and deflate in another mere fraction of the second.
Not only that but of all the products and systems that go into the making of a vehicle only one (airbags) is designed with a zero tolerance for failure. Airbags are designed, made and tested to work flawlessly 100% of the time. Look around your world and try to find something else as complex that's also as reliable. You will not find anything.
Airbag restraint and safety systems have such a high success rate that you can now find them being engineered into even more areas of vehicles to pad against injuries including doors, side panels, ceilings and in the backs of seats. In fact in today's fully equipped automobile or truck, upon impact in the blink of an eye the passengers are enveloped on all four sides by safety airbags.
Now one of the newer developments that are showing promise in road tests is a motorcycle safety air padding safety suit. An actual riding suit that contains airbag technology that explodes outward in an accident instantly to instantly form a cushion between the writer and the road.
It does not end there because because product engineers and developers are constantly on the lookout for new and innovative uses for safety airbags such as in the military to help keep servicemen safer and also in the manufacturing sector to protect workers from impact injuries.
Source by Katrina Wagner
This article will discuss what a car fuel filter and fuel pump mean and how you can replace these.
A fuel pump is typically installed in the fuel tank in new cars. Older cars will have the fuel pump attached to the engine or between the tank and the engine. If you find cars with the pump attached in the tank or on the frame rail, then more often than not, the pump is electric and powered by the car battery. For stable engine performance and long lifespan, clean fuel is essential. There are small openings in the fuel injectors which can clog quite easily so filters are the way of preventing this.
A fuel filter replacement may only cost somewhere between $ 10 and $ 20. However, this low cost is in effect only if you regularly maintain your filter. It is important to ensure a well functioning fuel filter. If it gets clogged up, fuel trying to flow will get stuck, so damaging your engine overtime. It does not take long to change the fuel filter. In fact, this should generally be replaced every year for an average car. Make a fuel filter replacement part of your regular maintenance schedule.
Likewise, a defective pump will damage the engine. Before performing fuel pump replacement, check the relays and fuses first. Replacing the pump is also not a very difficult task. It is first highly essential to release built up fuel pressure before attempting to remove the fuel pump. Remove the pump and then the fuel lines. Make sure leaking gas is caught by some means to prevent fire hazard. Now disconnect the wires that provide power for the pump. Now, you can fit the fuel pump replacement. Once this is strictly fixed, install everything back in order.
Source by Pinky Savika
Need new brake pads and rotors? Learn how to replace your brakes yourself and save more than half the cost of a shop! I show you every step including how to remove and install pads and rotors, where to use brake grease, how to grease the guide pins, and how to torque the bolts for a safe and complete brake job.
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Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix.
You can easily get a free auto repair manual for whichever repair need you might have. You need an internet access and have to follow a certain procedure searching for auto repair manuals, but when you have done this procedure a few times it will be very easy to find the right instructions for do it yourself auto repair and it won’t cost you a dime.
There are four types of automotive description documents that you will need to choose from when you want to do a repair;
- General manuals
- Diagnosis descriptions
- Repair manuals
- Maintenance manuals
In addition to some general manuals, most of these are related to the make. Here you can get step by step guidance on how to repair most of the makes in the vehicle market. Let’s say you have a Honda Acura 2002 model and you want to find a manual for that make and model. What you do is perform the following search in a search engine: “free car manuals+Honda Acura+2002”. Then you will have a long list of sites that provide you with all kinds of descriptions for your Honda Acure 2002 model, and you can choose what you want.
Automotive diagnosis manuals can also be sub-divided by make and model. But it can also be divided by the area of the vehicle that is affected, for example engine intake problems, brake problems, cooling problems, exhaust problems, start or stall problems, transmission problems etc. Let’s say you have a start problem. Your search would be “car diagnosis manual+ start problem”, then you should get more than enough repair information to choose from. You can even get diagnostic trees where all options are covered for nothing.
You have probably more than one time heard some annoying noise from somewhere in your vehicle, without finding the source of it. This is one of the most kinky situations to run into because you don’t know if it is a serious signal or just a small thing. Some websites gives you the opportunity to diagnose vehicle problems by the noise, sound and vibrating signals – and that is great. The sooner you find it the sooner you can fix it and then you can relax. When you search, you can describe the sound, for example “whine noise” or “shifter knocks” or “driveline vibration” plus car diagnosis manual plus eventually the make.
In addition to regular manuals you can also get very instructive and detailed descriptions in other internet document or websites like articles, etc. The natural way to sub-divide such repairs before searching, is by the area of the vehicle that is going to be repaired, for instance body repair, exhaust repair, suspension fix, interior repair and even general car repair.
You do the search the same way as above; “car repair manual (or description) + the area of repair and go through the list of resources you get.
Though vehicle maintenance is closely related to your vehicle make and model, there are some maintenance issues that are pretty much common whether you have a Cadillac, VW or a Mercedes, for example changing oil, changing air filters, engine wash, fluid maintenance, tier maintenance etc. You can get access to maintenance descriptions by searching for the kind of maintenance plus “car maintenance manual (or description)” plus eventually your make and model.
I think you’ll be amazed of the amount of automotive repair free stuff online.
Source by Terje Ellingsen
So your car’s CEL (Check Engine Light) is on and you had the codes scanned at a local parts store. Your car has either a P0171, P0174 lean fault code or both stored in the computer, these codes are based on Oxygen Sensor (O-2) readings. A lean code or codes indicate that there’s too much oxygen in the exhaust. Remember parts stores have employees that have good intentions but they may not have the experience necessary to interpret what the trouble codes really mean. These codes are based on oxygen measurements in the exhaust. A common mistake with lean codes is to replace the oxygen sensors. This could be a very expensive mistake that will not fix the problem. Especially if both codes are present, because the chance of both O-2 sensors failing at the same time is very unlikely.
Most likely the cause is a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak can be caused from a vacuum hose, intake gasket or maybe even a leak in the air intake hose from the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor). Listen for a hissing sound that may lead you to the source of the problem. Some technicians will use a propane bottle with a hose attachment to help pinpoint vacuum leaks. With today’s computers it’s not quite as easy to check for vacuum leaks this way because the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) will compensate quickly for the added fuel and a change in idle is harder to notice. Oxygen sensor readings can be monitored with a scan tool while checking for leaks with propane, by looking for increased readings when enriching the mixture. Another way technicians can check for vacuum leaks is with a smoke test. By introducing smoke into a vacuum hose on the engine, the leak will be revealed when the smoke escapes from the problem area.
Aftermarket air filters that use oil on the element can sometimes damage the MAF. Over oiling the air filter may allow some excess to get on the MAF sensor wire or element. This can alter the reading, fooling the ECU into seeing more or less air flow therefore changing the air/fuel mixture incorrectly. I once worked on a car that would not start that had a problem with a MAF. When looking at the wire in the MAF, there was a burned piece of trash that made it’s way past the air filter. After cleaning the sensor the car ran perfectly. The ash that was on the MAF sensor wire was altering the reading by enriching the mixture so much that the car could not run. After talking with the customer, he said the air filter was just changed. This was obviously when some trash got into the air intake hose that settled on the hot wire of the MAF.
Fuel Pressure could also cause a lean condition. If the fuel filter is clogged or the fuel pump pressure is low, there could be higher level of oxygen in the exhaust also. Most of the time though, the ECU will compensate for the reduced fuel volume. So this is one of the least likely causes of a lean code.
Source by Dennis Bandy
Many decades ago, people needed a way of drying their clothes in a more efficient manner than doing it manually and having to wait for the sun to shine. Drying clothes as an enormous task that can cost a person many hours per day.
In recent decades, drying machines have entered the scene and they are here to make our lives easier. There are a lot of different kinds on the market. They come in condensing and vented form, but also in tumbling and spinning form.
The key difference between a spinner and a tumbler is the way in which they dry clothes. The spinner will rapidly spin around clothes and force the water out of them by using centrifugal force. A tumbler heats its interior and uses the heat to make clothes dry.
The advantage that a spinner has over a tumbler, is that it uses hardly any electricity in comparison to the tumbler. The tumbling machine is known to be one of the most energy thirsty household appliances known to man. It uses much energy to heat up its interior.
The advantage that a tumbler has over a dryer, is that it can do its job much faster than the spinner. This is because all the heat that it generates does a really great job at getting water out wet clothes. It takes longer with centrifugal force.
It’s possible to combine these dryers’ advantages by first spinning your laundry and then tumbling it. By taking it for a 5 minute spin, you take so much water out of the clothes, that you will cut the upcoming tumbling time in half. This saves you much electricity.
More and more people are choosing a spin dryer over a tumble dryer because it’s so much cheaper. Of course, if you’ve got money to burn then you might as well go with a tumbler. They’re much faster and many people like the feeling of wearing warm clothes.
If you ever decide to go out and purchase a spinner, then get the one with the most rotations. The faster your clothes spin around, the sooner they’ll be dry. Go with a spinner that does more than 3000 rotations per minute for the best results.
Source by Tami Buchanan
Many little practices can reduce the fuel consumption by any kind of auto or on-highway Trucks. These are a few of the most common guidelines.
Paradoxically, air is a fluid. When a truck moves, it moved through air. This air (or correctly, fluid), needs to be pushed aside to allow the motion of the vehicle. This action of the air being pushed aside is referred to as "Drag." On highway trucks has been designed to reduce drag, for example, the OEM provided paint has been specifically designed to allow the least resistance of air over the truck sheet metal parts. If the paint has been substituted with an improper substitute, the drag may be increased, and the energy required to push the truck forward will also increase. For every 2% increase in aerodynamic drag, there is approximately a 1% decrease in fuel economy.
Traveling faster will need more energy (in the form of fuel) to be injected into the engine. The engineer governor or electronic fuel injection system will automatically increase the amount of fuel being injected into the engine. Recent estimates has indicated that above 55 mph, each 1 mph increase in vehicle speed decreases fuel economy by 0.1 MPG. These statistics used in this article are for on-highway trucks that uses Cummins engines
Every time a tire is in contact with the road surface, microscopic bonds are formed between the tires and the road surfaces. To move the tire around (and the truck forward) these microscopic bonds must first be broken. The energy required to break these bonds must be provided by the engine. Research has shown that worn tires provide up to 7% better fuel economy than new tires due to the worn surfaces. However, tires must be changed when the thread level has reached below acceptable thread depth. The break-in period for tires is between 35,000 and 50,000 miles.
The phenomenon of the microscopic bonds between the tires and the road surfaces was described above. This factor is compounded by an under inflated tire. The under inflated tire provides a larger surface area exposed to the road surface, and thus, more microscopic bonds are formed that must then be broken when the wheel turns. Industry estimates are that for every 10 psi that a truck's tires are under inflated, the fuel economy reduced by 1%.
High fuel consumption for tires makes the largest difference in MPG below 50 mph. Aerodynamic drag is the most significant factor over 50 mph.
Even if all of the above factors were corrected, fuel consumption can still be hampered by driving habits. The most efficient drivers will attain about 30% better fuel economy than the least efficient drivers. Least efficient drivers are those that repeatedly accelerate and decelerate quickly. This action of suddenly pushing the accelerator downwards (referred to as "kick-down"), injects a larger amount of diesel fuel into the engine. This initial fuel injection is typically energy inefficient as it is partially burnt in the engine. The dark exhaust gas that is emitted after this, is atypical of unburned carbon being exhausted. This is carbon that should be bringing complete combustion to propel the truck along.
Idling of any on highway engines for more than three (3) minutes when not needed, with a few exceptions, is illegal in most states. For the protection of the environment and to decrease fuel consumption, idling should be avoided. If possible, the engine should be switched off when not needed (except when in Canada's north). In Canada's north, the engine oil and components will quickly freeze, preventing the engine from starting again. In such cases, all engines are left running without stopped for maintenance purposes.
Idle time is costly. Every hour of idle time in a long-haul operation can decrease fuel economy by 1% as the truck is burning fuel and not moving.
Source by Marlon Khan